Currently, about 500 Israeli Settlers live in the very heart of the Old Town of Hebron. Before coming, I was not very clear as to what exactly a Settler was, nor why Israeli Settlements were such a major issue in peace talks. A good understanding of these is critical, so please forgive a brief diversion here into some history.
Prior to 1967, the boarders of Israel were set behind what is now known as “the Green Line.” During the 6 Days War, Israel defeated Jordan and occupied the land now known as the West Bank (the land along the western bank of the Jordan river). Since then, Israel has kept this land under its military control as an occupied territory.
This land represents a smaller portion of what had been designated by the United Nations to be an Arab state when the British gave up control of the whole region back in 1948. The independent Arab state never materialized, but the local people living in this area still maintain the hope of nationhood on this land.
By international law, this land remains an occupied territory of Israel. This designation prohibits Israel from transferring any of its civilian population into this area (the Geneva conventions prohibit nations from expanding their borders through war, and in the event of an occupation prohibit colonization). In simple terms, there should be no Israeli civilians trying to set up residence anywhere beyond the Green Line, and the illegality of such movements is unquestionable according to international law. This has been affirmed again and again by the United Nations.
However, international policy and politics have not upheld these laws, so the state of Israel has allowed and encouraged its citizens to move in large groups into the Palestinian Territories. These Israeli citizens are living in what are known as Settlements, and they themselves are known as Settlers.
Many Settlers who move into regions beyond the Green Line are given financial support in the form of grants, tax breaks, and reduced utility rates. They are also supported by the military, who provide around-the-clock physical protection. Frequently, these Settlements are built upon the land of Palestinians, or consist of homes confiscated from Palestinians.
In Hebron, the Settlers in the Old Town are ideological Settlers. They believe that all of the land that the ancient Jews inhabited was promised by God to the Jewish people. Therefore, they have a right to the land that supersedes the rights of the Palestinians who have
been living in the area for generations (to hear the voice of the settlers in Hebron, you can read articles from their spokesperson on their webpage at http://www.hebron.com/english/articles.php?cat_id=94)
The Settlement in Hebron claimed the primary commercial street that used to be a lively place of shops and markets. The majority of these shops have been permanently closed, and Palestinians have been forbidden from even walking down major portions of the street. It now resembles a ghost town. To protect the 500 settlers who live in this area, over 1,000 Israeli soldiers are present at checkpoints, lookouts, and street corners.
Directly across the street from the settlement is the Cordoba School, a small Palestinian girls’ school that has miraculously remained open. One of our primary tasks is to walk with the children of this school past the settlement so that they are not harassed by Settlers who have been known to verbally and physically harass the students (to see video of this a
t Cordoba school, go to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6zjnsaKXHg). Last spring, Settlers also uprooted a row of young trees planted by students on the school grounds (the row of holes left by these trees can be seen to the right, along with the school itself in the background).
So, much of my learning and many of my experiences this week have been discouraging. There is a great deal of sadness, resentment, and injustice in this land. I no longer feel that I am a pilgrim in a holy place, for the darkness of this conflict has overshadowed the remarkable history and rugged beauty of this land. But, I do feel purposeful and that our work is relevant.
I still have much to learn and am doing my best to sponge up information. My colleagues are fantastic, and I have very much enjoyed being part of an international community. I’ve been overwhelmed by the hospitality, generosity, and warmth of the many Palestinian families whom I have met. I’ve also been amazed by the courage of the handful of Israeli peace workers we have met who are resisting the dominant culture of Israeli politics to help their society move toward more just and peaceful policies.
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